On one of the days I resolved to finally venture forth on my own, back to my favourite cafe for a snack and a bit of a book read. For the first time I headed out to the Japanese wild on my own without my handy translator at my side.
I made it there fine, and with confidence walked in knowing what to do. Seat for 1 please. Then the waitress asked me something and I had no clue what she was saying. She asked again, then went bright red at the thought of not knowing what to say in English and my total lack of understanding. She tried to call over another waitress, who also didn't know what to do. Then finally a THIRD waitress, behind the counter making coffee, gave the answer. 'SMOKE?'. Oh. Dammit. I still haven no idea what the words they used for it, but were trying to ask if I wanted to go in the smoking section or non smoking. Sighhhh.
With that embarrassment behind me I got seated and ordered without any issue. To say the least that dented the confidence. And as I was preparing to undertake the journey of a lifetime the next day, travelling alone, taking the train, and heading to the massive city that is Kyoto to do some final shopping...I was no longer feeling quite so capable.
I sat for awhile. finished my waffle and coco, paid without incident and headed home. For the next day Naomi made some instructions, things to ask for, house number and address on a cheat sheet for me to take with me just in case I got in a pinch. I looked up some videos on youtube on how to use the trains and buy tickets etc. Even after watching Naomi do it enough times I was still slightly worried. The most confusing part for me is the station platforms and knowing which train is which. Buying tickets is fine as the computer system you use has an English button so that is no problem. And the train going from her hometown to Kyoto is simple enough as there are only two choices and the platform is very obvious. Kyoto however has a huge station full of all kinds of trains, so coming home (or lack there of) is what was frightening.
The next day I left the house just after breakfast. I walked to the station, about 20 minutes or so and was certainly feeling the heat with my thick coat and not a cloud in the sky! I managed to get my ticket and proceed to the proper platform without a problem (if for some reason your ticket is wrong the little gate would slam shut you go through and ring an alarm, a truly awful feeling. Though that really only happens when you get to your destination, if you paid for only 1 stop but went for 5 for example).
It was standing room only at that point, nothing I haven't experienced before, and off I went to Kyoto. Got there fine and dandy and took a moment to look around the platform first to make sure I had things figured out for the return trip. As I headed up the stairs to the exit I found myself literally stuck in a human flood of people pushing their way out. Holy hell it was busy. Japan is still in their holiday week and so it was nuts. I barely managed to break my way out before getting to the exit so I could stop and see where I need to go to get on the train home. After that I thought I better just buy the return ticket now to make things easier when finished. After waiting in line for 5 minutes to get the ticket, I headed off towards where the shopping area of the station was (called The Cube, its a big square 3 floor basement level area). Once I knew where to go I thought I would head to Starbucks to check the internet and take a break.
The night before I had checked a map of the area around the station. In about a 30min walk or less in any direction there is so much you can do and see. Noting there was 2 big temples nearby I thought I should be adventurous and just go for it. Using the big Kyoto Tower (pictured earlier in the blog) as my landmark I headed off after some coffee. A quick walk got to the first one and..as per this trip..all the main huge buildings were totally covered in a thick sheet metal for renovations. I just laughed, didn't even bother crossing the street to go look in and just headed straight for the next one.
Another 5 minutes, the whole time thinking what is the point I am sure it will be the same, and there I was. First sighting was good, no visible renovation...this might be OK.
One of the first gates I found. It had 4 that I saw just on the East side alone.
I went through the first one I saw which led to this little area that was walled off from the other part of the temple.
Another gate I passed by. I saw the bigger crowds going into another one up ahead.
Across the road from the main gate was this little gate that cars drove through. Not sure where it led to or even why it was over there.
And the main gate!
Nishi Honganji Temple. Established in 1602 by Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu. This temple and the other one I tried to go to are actually the result of the Shogun splitting them into 2 temples to help diminish the power of the Jodo sect (a type of Buddhism).
After heading through the main gate, to my delight, there was no construction to be seen! Finally, I had hit the jackpot. A pure undisturbed temple. And it was beautiful.
This main building, the Founder's Hall (Goeido) was completed in 1636 and is one of the largest wooden structures in the world.
This huge Icho (has yellow leaves apparently) tree sat outside the main building. It has been here since the temple itself was finished. Apparently it is hard to burn.
This lovely fountain sat beside it. Looked like a flower petal.
The two temples are linked by this nice little walk way. The other one is the Hall of Amida Buddha (Amidado).
Looking back on the larger building.
At first I wasn't going to bother going up and looking around, seeing as how I saw 0 foreigners there, but after seeing one other white guy I figured hey why not. After putting my shoes in a grocery bag, as is custom (or leave them at the steps) I headed up. The floorboards all make a squeaking bird noise, the famed Nightingale floors. I mentioned those in the last blog when we came to Japan before. They were designed this way to detect would be assassins as usually very high ranking people would come and stay here.
These massive iron gates sat above each door into the temple. It was a little creepy walking under them as I couldn't help think they could come swinging down.
Crossing the bridge over to the other side.
Looking back at yet another gate. You can see some ladies in Kimonos under it.
I didn't try and sneak pictures of the inside as its probably a nono, thought I saw no signs saying so, but it was also full of people praying. However the interiors were gorgeous, full of art and carvings.
Another large tree, though I am not sure if it is the same type as the other one.
Looking back at the smaller temple, and the girls in Kimonos were still there, getting pictures taken.
It was definitely worth it. I headed back to the station after this to do the souvenir shopping I came to do. Which actually was somewhat lousy! Happy I made the side trip to make it all worthwhile. I grabbed some food to go from the HUGE food area underground there, and headed back to the station platforms. I found the right spot, luckily things were labelled pretty well. Being in no rush for a particular train certainly helps. Waited in line, with quite a few looks back at the signs and electronic ones to make sure I was going to the right place. I was.
Nice ride home (with a seat!) and then walked back to the house. Mission accomplished. I wish I had done this earlier as I certainly feel a lot more comfortable getting around on my own. Probably could have squeezed a lot more in! Oh well. Next time for sure.
This may be the last real blog as we leave Naomi's parents tomorrow morning, take the bullet train back to Tokyo, stay a night then fly out the following day. I may get some things in around Tokyo and such and if so will update a final one.
Otherwise, see you next time.
Oh, and Tommy Lee Jones is still the Boss apparently.